AW 2020 Catwalk: Print ReportMarch 15, 2020
Prints and patterns are always a highlight of the catwalk season, and this season was no exception. From bold florals to conversational prints to plentiful animals, the catwalks featured just about every print imaginable.
BOLD FLORALS – The injection of bright floral and colours came via Dries Van Noten, Tory Burch, Richard Quinn, Simone Rocha and Valentino.
Dries Van Noten – Dries painted a telling picture of dark, mysterious romance with his floral prints. Blooming flowers created both a symbolic and literal reference devising a subtle sense of rebirth and regeneration.
Tory Burch – At Tory Burch vivid collage dresses evoked mixed media on canvas: elements plucked from traditional staples of women’s and menswear, jumbled together in unpredictable structures that fused effervescent surface decoration with vivid floral prints.
Richard Quinn – The king of florals mixed the traditionally feminine blooms printed on armour-like pieces.
Simone Rocha – Simone Rocha explored ominous narratives: the subversive floral femininity while retaining a constant undercurrent of tension.
Valentino – Piccolo stripped back to the brand’s core with the bold prints serving as rather insistent wake-up calls amidst the stream of ecstatic purification.
CONVERSATIONAL PRINTS – Conversations in prints as seen at Alexander McQueen, Oscar De La Renta, Roksanda, Victoria Beckham
Alexander McQueen – The print references at the Alexander McQueen show were from Wales, where this seasons research trip had descended. Sarah Burton imbued her print collection with things she picked up on her travels there.
Oscar De La Renta – In a fashion landscape that often gets pretentious quickly, where intellectual snobbery is alive and kicking; the print collection here was infectious, exuberant, fresh and clarified.
Victoria Beckham – At Victoria Beckham, it was about breaking the rules within the context of the codes and DNA of the print – conversation pieces as VB called it.
Roksanda – Pieced together in a delightfully mad mix of colour and texture, the prints were reminiscent of beautiful wall hangings.
ANIMAL PRINT – This season a lot of designers dabbled in animal print from Versace, Christopher Kane, Jonathan Simkhai and Prabal Gurung.
Christopher Kane – The subversively staged codes we’re begging to be deciphered, and this was the case this season as well with the bold animal prints. It is almost like turning the ugly on its head and making it fresh.
Jonathan Simkhai – There was an exciting undercurrent in the show here with broadly speaking print providing classicisms as a sort of antidote to decadence, which was beautiful to see.
Versace – The message was clear: anatomy and hormones aside, sexuality lies in the expression of the individual, and the eye of the beholder. The leopard print celebrated the difference between masculine and feminine sexuality and demonstrated how the two could come together.
Prabal Gurung – the show was a celebration of eclectic print misfits and impossible dreamers.